Amboseli National Park

Amboseli National Park lies in southern Kenya on the Tanzanian border, directly north of Mount Kilimanjaro, whose summit rises to 5,895 metres just across the frontier. The park is relatively small, at roughly 390 square kilometres, and sits at the core of a wider ecosystem of community land and conservancies through which wildlife moves. It was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1991. The landscape is a dry, dusty former lake bed with scattered acacia, a seasonal lake that floods only after good rains, and a series of permanent swamps fed by underground water from Kilimanjaro's snow and rain.

Those swamps, including Enkongo Narok and Ol Okenya, are the reason Amboseli is so productive in the dry season. Elephants, buffalo, hippos and a wealth of waterbirds concentrate on them when the surrounding plains are parched, and the contrast of bright green marsh, grey dust and the mountain behind defines the park's images. Amboseli's elephants are among the most studied in the world: a continuous research project has followed the population since 1972, and the park is known for its large-tusked bulls and relaxed family herds.

Safaris are conducted from lodges and camps inside and around the park in 4x4 vehicles on a network of tracks; the flat, open terrain means long sightlines and few obstructions. Kilimanjaro is usually clearest at dawn and again towards dusk, with cloud building over the summit during the day, so photographers plan drives to be in position with the mountain behind the subject at first light. Flamingos, pelicans and other waterbirds use the seasonal lake and swamp margins, particularly after rains.

For photography the park is as much about environment as about the animal. Wide and medium focal lengths that place an elephant family under the mountain are used as often as the long zoom, and dust kicked up by walking herds gives strong backlit images in the late afternoon. The dry season brings heat haze by mid-morning, so the working hours are short and early.